Melbourne: Part Two

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

The last full day I had in Melbourne started out just as cold and overcast as the previous one. We got up early (to clarify, I took this trip with my friend Christie) and spent part of the morning at the American Consulate, an unassuming office in a large building on St. Kilda Road. (Christie had lost her passport, the motivating reason for the visit in the first place). Luckily, it didn’t take long, and I was able to have a leisurely breakfast of… a bagel and cream cheese! While there are bakeries everywhere in Australia, very few if any actually sell bagels. Yet another craving satisfied.

One of the more frustrating idiosyncrasies Australia has is that shops close incredibly early nearly every day. In Adelaide, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a retail store that stays open past 5pm; in Melbourne, they’re open until 6pm. This presents a problem, because virtually everything else you would want to see as a tourist holds the same hours, so you end up rushing to fit everything in. We decided, due to the restricted shopping hours, to visit more stores in depth and look through the Magnificent Seven – the seven major arcades in the city center.

Block Arcade

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

By midday the sky was clearing up and it was slightly warmer, which made for much more pleasant city walking. We had lunch at an Indian place, after scoping out the dismally small Chinatown and finding nothing appetizing (disappointment). At this point we were on the west side of the CBD, close to some of the older buildings like the State Library and Parliament, and both of us wanted to see the two major cathedrals of Melbourne: St. Patrick’s and St. Paul’s.

Parliament

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

Spring Street

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

St. Patrick’s was far more magnificent than St. Paul’s; photographs can’t really capture its size. The inside was a true-to-form cathedral, with small alcoves and chapels ringing the inside, and a lovely organ and choir pit. Technically, I wasn’t supposed to be taking pictures inside, because a mass was about to start, but I didn’t realize that until I was leaving anyway. St. Paul’s was under construction, unfortunately. A lot of unsightly scaffolding marred the beauty of its interior.

St. Patrick's

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

St. Paul's

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

Some of my friends had told me that I couldn’t miss the National Gallery of Victoria, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. It is the oldest, and largest, art gallery in Australia, boasting some very fine works from all the major periods, including those famous artists like Rembrandt, Picasso, and Rubens, along with Aboriginal and modern Australian pieces. We took a tour of the gallery with a knowledgeable docent, who gave us more information than we ever could have gotten of both the pieces and the building’s history.

National Gallery of Victoria

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

The building itself would have been worth the trip. It was designed by the Australian architect Roy Grounds and completed in 1967, and renovated in 2003 by Mario Bellini. One of its main features is a water wall as you enter the building, flanked by steel sculptures of an entire town of people (8 in total), from Arnhem Land in the Center. Another is a large stained glass ceiling, designed by Leonard French.

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

After spending time at the gallery, we made our way to the Chapel Street Precinct, a hip shopping place where you can find both upscale stores and trendy, bohemian boutiques. After spending time shopping in both the city center and Chapel Street, we now know why Melbournians are so well-dressed. Dinner was at a Mexican-fusion restaurant on Chapel Street, where the food was excellent, if not very authentic.

Chapel Street

From Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road

By this time, Christie and I were even more footsore than the day before, so we stopped back at our hostel to recuperate before heading back into the city for drinks with friends from Adelaide who had just arrived in Melbourne. Before we left, however, I needed to make a stop at the famed Monarch Cake Shop to see if their desserts lived up to their reputation. And with a slice of flourless chocolate cake, I got a little bit of heaven.

Walking to the tram stop that night on the Southbank of the city, we passed by a fire show that happens twice each night. There are huge columns placed down the river that shoot up fireballs, synchronized with one another. I so wish I had brought my camera. To stay warm while we were waiting for the tram, we jumped in to the Casino quickly, a massive place that is fairly busy even on a Monday night. We couldn't stay to play (not that I would really want to), because the next morning we had to get up bright an early to catch our bus for the Great Ocean Road, where we spent three glorious days....

NEXT UP: The Great Ocean Road – Day 1